Well I am new to this…
This is what I'm calling my shots that I post process in this manner. I have gotten several requests to share what I did in SmugMug so I'm posting this here. We use PSE7, but I'm sure that most good photo editing soft has the same abilities.
I shoot in RAW, and some work is done before really getting into the edit mod, but this really has minimal or no bearing on what I do to get the final affects. I have also used shots from a point and shoot just as effectively. When I am walking the dog in the park by myself, my Nikon is just too big and bulky, the point and shoot is so much handier in that situation.
The picture selected should be one that lends itself to this process. A subject should be centered in the photograph. Yes, you can have off centered subjects, but I find centered to be easiest. Look for shots that have details that can be highlighted in the picture later and ones that will lend to the blurring affect.
Sample: The finished shot is in my Abstract Gallery.
This picture has a subject in the center, an alder leaf, with lines and leaves all around that can be brought out thru the spin effect. I like to have something in the shot with some good color too, don't need much. Once again, check this one out in my abstract gallery…
Open the picture in edit mode. Using layers, duplicate the original layer twice.
Select the upper most layer in the layer section. Go to Filter, Blur, Radial Blur – you will get this popup… 
For the spin effect, select Spin under Blur method. I have been using a spin amount of between 5 and 15 for most shots (showing above as 42). It does not take much to get the affect. In some shots more is better and others less is better, use your judgment, trial and error.
This method works with both the Spin and the Zoom blur method; check out my shots in my Abstract Gallery for examples of both… Most of what I have done so far uses the spinning style, but as I look for shots to use for 'The World In Motion' I look for ones for both methods.
Now make sure the "spun" layer is the upper most layer so that it will appear on the top of the picture. Highlight or select this layer as active. Now using the Eraser feature erase portions of the spun layer revealing the un-spun layer beneath. For areas that I want full un-spun I use an Opacity factor of 80 to 90%, then later use 100% while cleaning up the image, generally this is the subject in the center of the picture only. Adjust the opacity factor in other areas of the photo where you are just trying to hint at something there to 5 to 7%. You can always go over it again and again to bring out the background. I vary the size and opacity to get a smooth transition between the spun and un-spun layers and based on the size of the subject I want to bring forward. Also, use the Brush selections with soft edges as this gives you a soft line and better blending.
I vary the size of the eraser pixels and the % factor based on how much I want to show thru. A large pixel eraser with a very small factor produces the hints of a leaf or rock but still leaves it fuzzy. Play around and get a feel for what the differences are…
To get the hard edge, use a higher opacity or go over it more often until the edge appears. To get a soft edge use a lower opacity. Sometimes I use only one pass at 7% to bring out those fuzzy features. Blend using varying opacity factors in one direction away from any hard lines. Blending in one direction helps give that motion feel.
I click on the "eye" of the spun layer to view the un-spun layer a lot. Using the ruler feature, determine what and where something is you want to highlight, then re-click the eye and erase the area. With the spun layer on top you cannot see the objects in the photo, doing this lets you see them, place them in the photo, then erase the layer over them. I go back and forth doing this as many times as needed to get the end effects I want. Not sure I explained that well…
For the water valve shot, I used two different spun layers and erased both differently, this can add a little depth to the shot. I did not use this technique on the remaining shots. Something to keep in mind when doing this type of PP. Other layers can be added with colors or other affects. For the one below I used the artist dry brush affect on the spun layer only… Experiment…
The first one took a little time, but it gets very fast as you get a feel for the opacity levels and eraser sizes best for each situation. When in doubt use a small pixel eraser and a low % opacity. It is easy to go larger and increase the % if needed that to start with too much. If you erase too much, you may need to start over…I know… 
Filter…..
Above pictures shows the spun layer as active and at the top. A close look shows I have erased some of it. The "eye" I refer to is the "eye" to the left of the picture in the layer section.
I'm a nut for using layers, you can always hide them by removing the eye, then bring them back later if you want…
I started out not using too much beyond basic editing and retouching. The more I get into PSE the more I find I do not know… What a powerful tool!
If I did not explain something well enough, please hit me up. Also, both Paula and I are always willing to share our techniques so if you see anything else we do that you want to understand better, let us know.
